Set off at first light, around 7.30, the path mostly dry, unlike the tales we'd heard. Many birds, mostly invisible in the half-light under the trees, but bellbirds and tui are easily recognised by their songs. Six hours along a good path, more streams, lakes, waterfalls and dripping ferns.
Bell Rock is an extraordinary feature, the sort of hole made by boulders in a wild torrent, then picked up and turned upside down. Imagine the power needed to overturn a rock with a cavity 15 feet high, wide enough to hold a dozen people, and to put it down without breaking it.
We made it back in spite of the weather's best efforts to stop us, in fact had a 30 hour near-drought, the rain starting again as we got on the open boat back to the road head, back to a spa-bath and glass of wine in Dunluce, our lovely B&B.